New to jet boating....new boat project.

[Swift12]

Thanks Jeff. I値l just make them the right length to fit the loom. On the race car with the link extreme link suggested I make the injector leads the same as I was running peak and hold sequential injection and dead times were reliant on voltage. Probably total overkill!
The race car has DBW so I had specific power requirements for the electronic throttle but this thing is a simple cable.

So I値l stop overthinking it. It痴 a pretty simple loom so I値l just get to making it. It surprises me that the requirement for shielded cables for the crank and cam sensors and knock sensors is not needed on the ls1 and they are certainly not in the loom.....plus link advised not to run any heavy draw cables next to sensor cables but the ls1 loom it痴 just all bunched together.mmmm.....

[Paul]

As long as the wire is big enough, then the volts-drop should all be across the component, not the wiring.

[Kakapo76]

First things first- well done on your build- fantastic attention to detail and I am sure it will be an awesome boat when you are done. As someone mentioned earlier- no one has any major issues with your work so we can't really make any suggestions!

On the topic of wiring- my injector leads came from my loom builder equal length- I thought nothing of it at the time- there may be a reason, or it just might have been easier for him to cut them in batches all the same length, make of it what you will.

I would, however, advise shielded cables whenever possible, I have been chasing an electrical gremlin for over a year and we have only just got it sorted through a combination of proper star grounding (all grounds back to a single point on the block before going to the battery then the hull) and a shielded crank position wire. I was losing sync which caused all sorts of havoc and took a while to sort out. At the very least it cannot hurt and it also adds a layer of protection to wiring as you snake it around the block.

The biggest lesson I learnt in the whole build is that wiring is the easiest thing to do badly if its not your thing.

Anyway- well-done again, it's great to see a perfectionist at work and given your profession quite comforting 

[Swift12]

Cheers Guys.
Thanks kakapo for the nice comments.

Electrical theeory is not my thing but putting the loom together will be sweet. Yes I値l use shielded on both the crank and cam sensors...I have it already. Definitely used shielded on the race car for both of those and the knock sensor. I have three core and two core mil spec shielded wiring for those things. I have four pages of notes I researched on this trip. Got all the sensor connector wiring positions sorted. In fact the Holden ECU makes it simple as most circuits use their own dedicated sensor grounds unlike the link extreme which had two sensor grounds and two earths.

This has earths for o2 sensors and other items which I値l connect to earth anyway even if not using those things....the rest of the Pinouts I have nailed down.....even the OBD port ones. I知 using a Bussman RTMR to hold the three relays I値l be using. The RTMR also has 10 fuses. I値l stick the lot in a water proof enclosure.

When I wired the race car and it went to the tuners everything worked so I知 pretty sure I値l get this nailed....be nice to have a new loom with new connectors....certainly a cause for gremlins using old stuff. I will use a starter relay....the little car one drew 18 amps! Don稚 want a huge wire and burning out the ignition switch early.....I will carry spare relays. I値l probably use a relay for the bilge pumps too.

[Jeff B]

My experience with wiring various ECU,s, and in some cases ditching for a simpler carb/dizzy setup is that they are all vastly different. Some of the older aftermarket ecu's are not that good at picking up trigger signals, also some trigger types (reluctor) are more prone to interference.
Aftermarket ecu's, link, haltech, megadribble etc...are made to adapt to lots of different trigger types and some types are de-coded better than others.
The Holden (Delphi) ecu (pcm) is a very high tech bit of gear, it's a beast with way more functions and is designed specifically for that engine and sensors. They never have trouble with losing sync. If it needed shielded wires from triggers I'm sure GM would fit them factory.
But it won't hurt going overkill.

[Swift12]

Thanks Jeff good to hear they are good ECU痴. Yes I guess gm would have put shielded wires in there if needed. Seeing as I have the shielded wires I値l go overkill on it.  Can稚 hurt. Airborne right now....home in the morning....then I値l get into it. Pics later.

[Paul]

Only ground ONE end of the shielding (typically the ECU end).  If you ground both ends, you've just made an aerial...

[MRM]

Only ground ONE end of the shielding (typically the ECU end).  If you ground both ends, you've just made an aerial...

Dunno about that Paul. Other way around I reckon

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Talk:Shielded_cable#Grounding_Cable_Shields
And there is another bit slightly further up about grounding both ends

[Swift12]

Paul is absolutely correct on that . Must only ground one end of the shielding wire. On the link extreme i grounded both ends and link support told me to take the ground away at the sensor end....(just the outer shielding wire that is.....not the actual sensor ground wire) or you can definitely screw your signals up.

[Paul]

Dunno about that Paul. Other way around I reckon

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Talk:Shielded_cable#Grounding_Cable_Shields
And there is another bit slightly further up about grounding both ends

Is that doc referencing cable TV installs?  There's also references to lightening protection.  Not really auto wiring.  You may find the Avionics wiring has another spec again?

Anyway, attached are a couple of screenshots from an auto workshop manual, re shielding on wiring.
Note on the second page "All screened cables are not connected on component end".

[Swift12]

so i plonked in my exhaust outlet today.

then started wiring...bit tired so didn't take much on. wired my knock sensor connector and the crank and cam sensor connectors. i have decided to start at my sensors and work back to the ECU connector. that way I can position my wires where i want them. here are the three connectors I did...about 10 to 15 minutes each. I have crimped with a delphi tool with the correct size and then hit it with a little solder.

[mallyxt]

If you have the correct crimpers and have prepared and crimped the terminals correctly
You do not need the solder it jus causes a stiff area in the wiring where it will fatigue and crack
All the connections in the tin birds are crimped this way .
You only ground at one end of a shield as grounding both ends causes earth loops that cause havic with signals

[Swift12]

Ok sounds like a good point. Yes I have the correct crimpers so I値l forego the soldering. Cheers. Be quicker too.

[Paul]

If you have the correct crimpers and have prepared and crimped the terminals correctly
You do not need the solder it jus causes a stiff area in the wiring where it will fatigue and crack
All the connections in the tin birds are crimped this way .

I guess if you're using the proper plugs with new/intact seals on the front & back of every cavity, then they will be sealed properly.  However, for junctions that are open to the environment (like ring/spade connectors, maybe relay bases, etc), then I'd solder the wire connection as well.  My entire boat is ring/spade connectors and every one is soldered.

My thoughts on the soldering, is that a warm, damp, boat bilge, is a near perfect environment for corrosion.  Corrosion will really rapidly stop current getting through a connection.

[Swift12]

Cheers yes it痴 all Metri-Pack water proof connections and any ring terminals I use heatshrink terminals on them...the bussmann rtmr is all water proof too so my relays and fuses are all water proofed. The wire is marine grade ancor or tefzel coated but always tinned. The injector connectors have boots on them. Hopefully I have the corrosion thing covered