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nzjetboating.com Forums => Tech Library => Topic started by: gto1973 on August 24, 2015, 17:17:14 PM

Title: bilge switch
Post by: gto1973 on August 24, 2015, 17:17:14 PM
would this bilge switch be alright? what are the solid state ones like?

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/boats-marine/parts-accessories/other/auction-938410190.htm (http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/boats-marine/parts-accessories/other/auction-938410190.htm)

thanks Jesse
Title: Re: bilge switch
Post by: mohawk on August 24, 2015, 21:03:11 PM
Seems flash  ???   Most I know are buying the pumps with the integral switch .
Be sure too ad a light for each pump so you know when its on or not  b>
Title: Re: bilge switch
Post by: gto1973 on August 25, 2015, 00:45:34 AM
Yea I bought two 800gph ones from repco 75 each they are manual ones I wanted to get a good switch though an I'll have auto an manual override  with lights. was just going to have them both run off the auto then maybe two separate overrides?
Title: Re: bilge switch
Post by: mohawk on August 25, 2015, 19:03:51 PM
bilge pumps set up is a personal thing . just make sure they both work .
Make sure the fuses are easy too get at , Ive blown a few when sticks jamb them up.
I have a little flappy float switch that rattled on the bottom and the light flashed every time I stood on the gas . I cable tied a scotch bright pad over the flappy bit and it made it less sensitive and stopped the rattle  b>
Title: Re: bilge switch
Post by: Paul on August 26, 2015, 13:48:23 PM
bilge pumps set up is a personal thing
Yes, you'll get a stack of options.

I didn't like the 'auto pumps' that I saw, as it seemed they were designed to run regularly (every minute or so?).  They spin up to check RPM and keep going until RPMs max-out (- i.e. the pump has then run dry - the RPMs are lower when pumping water).  Quite a crude system I thought and wasteful of power - especially for those times when the boat is left for a number of hours\overnight in the water.  Because of that, I wanted a proper bilge float-switch and went with a 'Sure Bail'.

The needs I saw:
- mercury float-switch in bilge;
- multiple pumps for redundancy - individually fused;
- able to run the pumps in 'manual' or 'automatic' mode;
- buzzer to sound, if the float-switch starts the pumps and the engine is running;
- minimum number of connections in the bilge for long-term reliability.

It was then wired up as per the diagram below.
Title: Re: bilge switch
Post by: gto1973 on August 26, 2015, 19:19:42 PM
this may sound dumb but what does the middle image represent with the switches in it, is it a relay?  cou
Title: Re: bilge switch
Post by: Paul on August 26, 2015, 20:24:55 PM
is it a relay?
Yup.

If you don't care about stopping the buzzer running when the engine is off (which is a bit annoying to listen too), then you can remove the relay from the circuit totally.  This leaves the float-switch enabling the pumps and buzzer directly.  It also means that all the current for the pumps goes through the float-switch (- which I felt was not ideal, so I added the relay).
Title: Re: bilge switch
Post by: gto1973 on August 27, 2015, 14:56:55 PM
Yea not into the buzzer I'll get switches with lights. If it's a 12 volt solid state or float it should be fine to run that right?
Title: Re: bilge switch
Post by: Paul on August 27, 2015, 15:05:47 PM
If it's a 12 volt solid state or float it should be fine to run that right?
Check the current ratings on the pumps vs switch.
Title: Re: bilge switch
Post by: Jeff B on August 27, 2015, 17:16:29 PM
I usually run 2 bilge pumps, one each side of the unit. One is auto the other manual but when I switch the manual one on both go just to check the auto one still works.
Most ski pumps also run a venturi bilge as well that I hook up, they work well.