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nzjetboating.com Forums => Projects => Topic started by: Hondaz on August 28, 2021, 08:32:14 AM

Title: Rapid Runner repower/refit
Post by: Hondaz on August 28, 2021, 08:32:14 AM
With not much going on the web board. I thought I should contribute my little project. I bought a 4.6m Rapid Runner running a raw water cooled 302W and 773 last year and ran it as is while collecting the parts and looking for the time for the rebuild. Enter lockdown... Actually I had removed the motor and sold it prior but that's about it. I'm also using this as a learn to TIG project so be gentle as there is some ugly welds on there.
Title: Re: Rapid Runner repower/refit
Post by: Hondaz on August 28, 2021, 08:45:26 AM
Turns out you shouldn't judge a book by its cover... The boat turned out to be pretty badly put together. When I turned up for the test drive the boat was tied up at the ramp ready to go. The first time I tried backing it off the trailer when I got it home I needed to get so far in the river as to have the drawbar on the trailer totally submerged! Back on the trailer I found not 1 but 2 wedges fitted to the unit. On the test drive I had noticed it was pretty nose down. The 2 wedges meant the reverse bucket wasn't engaging fully. Rang the last owner who told me he just got in the water deeper to get it off the trailer. Turns out all the gear got swapped out of an old steel hull with fuel tanks in the back and it looks like nothing got changed. Removed the wedges. Fixed reverse - much better.

The front seats were mounted on some butt ugly and poorly designed pedestals that were just screwed to the ply floor! I found this out the second time I had the boat out and ripped the seat base right out of the floor doing high speed Hamilton turns... Note to self. First thing to do on refit and be gentle till then. Drilled more holes in the seat base and found some better screws till then.
Title: Re: Rapid Runner repower/refit
Post by: Hondaz on August 28, 2021, 08:53:36 AM
Into the project. Pulled up the floor and found this abortion. Some packers used to lift the floor level to clear the fuel tank. That's why the seats were only into the ply.
Title: Re: Rapid Runner repower/refit
Post by: Hondaz on August 28, 2021, 08:59:07 AM
Marinising this. Decided to go for Hi-Flow manifolds and run the standard car ECU after trawling this forum over and over again. Also going for HX rather than raw water. Also fitted a unit protection plate/ride plate before a 3 week south island trip earlier this year on the old motor. Will also be fitting dual upgraded bilge pumps to replace the single 500GPH unit.
Title: Re: Rapid Runner repower/refit
Post by: Hondaz on August 28, 2021, 09:11:33 AM
So I'm also trying to get more rear seat space as I previously only had about 5 inches between front and rear seats. The motor is an L98. I've flipped the intake manifold 180 degrees to gain some space.  I had to machine off the oil pressure sensor boss on the valley plate and TIG up the cast Ali hole... First TIG job. While I haven't run it yet it looks like it's sealed up alright. I bought a adapter off EBAY to replace the oil bypass cap on the side of the block to fit the factory oil pressure sensor and also to take the gauge sensor. Some minor clearancing of the inlet manifold plastic honeycomb was required around the PCV outlet. Other than that it seemed pretty straight forward (so far).
Title: Re: Rapid Runner repower/refit
Post by: Hondaz on August 28, 2021, 09:22:26 AM
I'm going to keep the PCV system operating but have added a little catch can/filter unit from Ali Express into the line to try and reduce the amount of oil mist going in the intake manifold. Mounted up the front of motor where the power steering reservoir was. Header tank fabricated and put on the opposite side and steam tubes plumbed in. Heater bypass hose from Ali Express. Yeah... I don't want to spend money on it if I don't have to. I've gone for an easy/cheap serpentine belt routing. Removed the PS pump and replaced the lower fixed smooth idler with a grooved one and countersunk an alternator mounting bolt. Easy and cheap.
Title: Re: Rapid Runner repower/refit
Post by: Hondaz on August 28, 2021, 09:39:46 AM
Bought a new H bar as the original driveshaft setup on the 302 was long and ugly. First trial fit in the hull showed I had sump clearance issues at the rear of the sump around the intake of the jet unit. Was thinking about options for cutting and welding when luckily one popped up on trademe that had been done already (and had extra volume added to the front) and came with a pickup and dipstick. All for a couple hundred bucks less than I sold my standard one for! When I went to change the sump over however that couple of hundred dollars disappeared real fast... There was a piece of shiny metal in the sump. I had seen a vid of this motor running but started to get pretty nervous. Turned out to just be the cam chain tensioner slipper and is apparently a weak point on these motors. Replaced it with a LS2 style dampener which is supposed to be stronger. While in there I also replaced timing chain, oil pump, and water pump. I was going to leave that stuff alone as the motor supposedly had 160km on it, but now it's done and I don't have to worry about it again. While I was playing with the motor I did the rocker cover gaskets as well as these had shown signs of leaking. The oil pickup that came with the sump, while modified wasn't a straight bolt in fit but a bit of careful measuring, minor tweaking and a new support made up and it's probably as good as the original. Also the dipstick that came with the sump fitted through the block and not the sump like the L98 but there was a knock out plug in the block that came out easily enough and I re-marked the dipstick full level after careful measuring of the old, new and windage tray etc. Minor tweaks to the dipstick tube put it in a suitable out of the way place. I also ditched the oil level sensor that was in the original sump.
Title: Re: Rapid Runner repower/refit
Post by: Hondaz on August 28, 2021, 09:50:07 AM
Fabricated up some new alloy engine mounts to suit adjustable feet. Tacked these together while I practiced TIG a bit more on the new front seat bases. The seat bases fit a couple of plastic ammo boxes and are skinned in thin alloy and will be carpeted to hide dodgey welds. Photo shows old pedestal on passenger seat. New seat bases spread the weight better and can be bolted to bearers and are lighter than old steel pedestals.
Title: Re: Rapid Runner repower/refit
Post by: Hondaz on August 28, 2021, 09:55:19 AM
Got brave enough with the TIG one day to glue the engine mounts up. Those who are wondering about the front mount up right bits - they are recovered bits from an old telecommunications rack hence the 6mm tapped holes. May come in useful layer for mounting stuff. Lots of that sort of thing on this project. I'm planning on putting a ring gear splash guard in at some point in the future.
Title: Re: Rapid Runner repower/refit
Post by: Hondaz on August 28, 2021, 10:03:35 AM
Threw the motor into the boat and aligned the driveshaft. Had minor panic attack when I realised I had set up the mounts for the motor to be parallel but it turns out I had way too much vertical offset and the driveshaft angle was too high - yoke nearly touching the H. Went for a broken back setup in the end after using the Hardy-Spicer online calculator for driveshaft alignment angles. Couldn't measure angles to that degree of accuracy but can measure distances and can do trig ok so hopefully it works out. May have to end up pulling it all out again anyway and machining a few mm off the driveshaft as I only have 2mm of spline joint left. l-l
Title: Re: Rapid Runner repower/refit
Post by: Hondaz on August 28, 2021, 10:06:55 AM
Fabricated a couple of exhausts out some old 80mm alloy 2mm wall tube I had laying around (recovered LARGE coaxial cable outer). It's a bit bigger than 3 inches but I can just squeeze it into the silicone couplers. I'm not sure how long the tapes going to hold though.
Title: Re: Rapid Runner repower/refit
Post by: Hondaz on August 28, 2021, 10:14:13 AM
The header tank is made out of the same alloy tubing. Also slipped the fuel tank back as far as possible to gain enough space to get the floor down flat on the bearers. Trying to shift weight forwards now to offset that. Moving battery to front by throttle pedal and sunk into floor up there so I have easy access to isolating switch (not previously fitted on boat  no0)
Title: Re: Rapid Runner repower/refit
Post by: Hondaz on August 28, 2021, 10:16:34 AM
Again re using scraps of ali laying and and cutting down the old battery box to line it. It also stops passengers from kicking the throttle. Also moved the throttle to a better position - was almost in the centre of the boat previously!
Title: Re: Rapid Runner repower/refit
Post by: Hondaz on August 28, 2021, 10:18:38 AM
While we are talking throttle... Made a pedal box to house car throttle pedal driven from Morse throttle. Mounted up on the transom above the left exhaust
Title: Re: Rapid Runner repower/refit
Post by: Hondaz on August 28, 2021, 10:28:36 AM
One of my bargain buys was a complete 20/40 underfloor heat exchanger and header tank. The header tank didn't suit at all but the HX will hopefully be enough to cool the LS (was on a 351) and just fits in the hull nicely and the engine side just comes up inside the engine box nicely. Had to chop out a bearer stiffener to get it in there but have bolted a new one in there so I can access it if I need to. Also the front plumbing connections are right under the new front seat base so I'll cut an inspection hatch in the floor under the seat to access these.

I've also removed a ton of excess crap off the sandtrap and plumbed the dump through a new skin fitting as it used to dump inside the hull. See picture for removed parts. I'm also trying to keep the water flowing nice and fast through the HX.
Title: Re: Rapid Runner repower/refit
Post by: Ross Goldsack - JBNZ Immediate Past President on August 28, 2021, 11:09:03 AM

Great to see someone getting stuck into a project. Often it's only when you start ripping it apart you find all the boats secrets  O)))) nothing that time, ingenuity and $$$$ can't fix.
This web board is dieing and without fresh projects like this. Thanks for posting  b>
Title: Re: Rapid Runner repower/refit
Post by: johnmead on August 28, 2021, 12:37:15 PM
great job going on there  b> Are you going to support or fasten the HX in any way to stop it jiggling/wiggling and wear a hole in itself?
Title: Re: Rapid Runner repower/refit
Post by: Hondaz on August 28, 2021, 13:03:21 PM
Yeah half done already John but no pics. Just a couple of padded pipe clamps on each tube.
Title: Re: Rapid Runner repower/refit
Post by: Jeff B on August 28, 2021, 14:32:16 PM
Sounds like it was put together a bit boogie to start with....
Nothing time and $ and more time won't fix.
Putting the battery up front like you have done is not common, what route will you take with wiring?
Title: Re: Rapid Runner repower/refit
Post by: Hondaz on August 28, 2021, 14:41:53 PM
I think I can possibly squeeze it down next to the fuel tank. If not then it can go under the tank in a piece of conduit. Or perhaps a combination of both. Maybe just the main power connections heading towards the motor and run a bus system at the engine for simplicity? Not entirely certain yet on the details. I'm an electronics tech by trade so I'm pretty sure I can figure that part out.
Title: Re: Rapid Runner repower/refit
Post by: Jimmy Jet on August 28, 2021, 15:34:06 PM
 Cool project, looking good. All I can suggest with the tig and welding anything that holds liquid or pressure is to test it up. Can be quite deceiving how good a weld can look (esp to the lesser experienced) and yet it can weep. Welds are looking pretty decent considering.
Title: Re: Rapid Runner repower/refit
Post by: Hondaz on August 28, 2021, 15:42:55 PM
Thanks Jimmy. Yeah I pressure tested the header tank as it stands at the moment and no leaks after half an hour so figured it was good enough. Will do the whole cooling system once I have it together. The exhausts will be a suck it see though unfortunately. Hopefully doesn't fill the boat with water... Going to fabricate a surge tank last so that's the one I'm a little concerned about. Will definitely pressure test that one. The surge tank will be xx oversized to get a wee bit more fuel into the boat and also to try and help keep the fuel cool feeding the motor.
Title: Re: Rapid Runner repower/refit
Post by: Hondaz on August 28, 2021, 17:31:08 PM
HX and fuel tank mounted. Began plumbing HX.
Title: Re: Rapid Runner repower/refit
Post by: Allen M on August 29, 2021, 10:44:16 AM
Looking pretty good so far b> Lots of pictures are even better.
Battery box idea is great but I hope you?ve left a bit of space between the bottom of the battery and the hull. This area of the hull can take some pretty big hits and it wouldn?t be good if the hull flexed up and smacked the bottom of the battery.
Great thread,keep it coming  B))T
Title: Re: Rapid Runner repower/refit
Post by: tyro on August 29, 2021, 11:58:48 AM
I remember when building my boat I was told have the battery as close as practical to the motor as possible and I remember reading somewhere in the depths of this forum (can't find the post) that long leads to the battery was a bad idea? This is just stuff I was read/told so there may not be anything truthful in practice in it -just throwing it out there would be interesting to know

Also would the battery get more shock at that position from wave joggle etc versus rear of boat, probably not an issue if using a nice battery like an optima?
Title: Re: Rapid Runner repower/refit
Post by: Hondaz on August 29, 2021, 15:30:02 PM
HX engine side plumbing done and tested. Once I sealed the thermostat housing it was pretty good. One minor pinhole found and repaired at 18psi. A couple of leaky hose clamps. I think there is about 3 different alloy antenna booms in that plumbing arrangement.

Re the battery thing. Yes there is a bit of space between the battery and the hull. The battery also sits in a plastic sealed tray up to floor level in case of acid spills. The whole arrangement is suspended from the floor (with a tight fit) as opposed to mounted on the hull. I was just going to strap the battery into the box. It's about 3M of cabling required to get to the starter motor and if we estimate say 350CCA (worse case? Someone could measure) I think the volt drop is probably fine with 25mm cable. 16mm might be a bit light. 35mm would also be fine but getting heavier physically which I am trying hard to avoid. Worse case scenario I have some 70mm cable here but will move the battery back before going to that extent. I could also consider a gear reduction starter and just call it a maintenance item to increase reliability to get it past the bank manager.

I'm pretty sure Dad's old Jet52 had the battery in the floor - maybe between the back to back seats? I don't know, it was a long time ago. Plus with it like this it can't be any worse than when I got the boat... It was in a staple type box in the back corner and not tied into the box in any way jaw
Title: Re: Rapid Runner repower/refit
Post by: johnmead on August 29, 2021, 20:30:44 PM
HX looks good  b>
Title: Re: Rapid Runner repower/refit
Post by: Jimmy Jet on August 30, 2021, 06:45:59 AM
I'd err on the side of caution with the cable. Go heavier if you can, 50mm maybe.
Look at worst case scenario for the CCA and add in more leeway.
Title: Re: Rapid Runner repower/refit
Post by: Warwick Marflitt on August 30, 2021, 18:35:48 PM
Copper and alloy joined together in boats can cause Galvanic corrosion. Don't let it eat your boat? Copper is more noble than aluminum....   

https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-d&gbv=1&q=copper+and+aluminium+in+a+boat+galvanic+corrosion&spell=1&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwj80viVjNjyAhVBzjgGHZqdCO4QvwV6BAgMEAE
Title: Re: Rapid Runner repower/refit
Post by: Jimmy Jet on August 30, 2021, 18:59:44 PM
What would you suggest Warwick? Sacrificial pencil anodes in the cooling system? That type of cooling arrangement has been around for a long time now in jetboats, is there actually much evidence of either hulls or aluminium engine components sizzling away at a huge rate in jetboats with that type of cooling arrangement? Can any others comment?
Title: Re: Rapid Runner repower/refit
Post by: Hondaz on August 30, 2021, 19:22:05 PM
I can confirm there is no direct aluminium to copper connections. The HX is mounted in galvanised steel pipe clamps, that for peace of mind, were fitted with self adhesive rubber weather sealing strips. I haven't checked with a multimeter but I'm pretty sure it's isolated well enough at least until it's filled with coolant.
How is the ground on your battery system supposed to be connected of not via copper lugs - even tinned. Only possible way would be through a stainless washer setup but gives a pretty poor earth relatively speaking I would think? My mates boat runs his entire negative side system through his hull with no obvious issues - I'm not sure if this is such a great idea though?
Title: Re: Rapid Runner repower/refit
Post by: Warwick Marflitt on August 30, 2021, 20:57:21 PM
Hey Jimmy. You just need to be aware of it.
When two metals of a different potential are connected to each other, and immersed in an electrolyte like sea water, the metals  have their charges ?equalized.?  The less noble metal, stripped of its inherent protective charge, is unable to prevent the chloride ions in the sea water from pulling metal away.  This is electro-chemical corrosion. Less noble metals Alloy are anodic, or negative, and if connected, will sacrifice themselves to any more noble metal they are electrically in contact with while immersed in an electrolyte.  The more noble metal (Copper) is cathodic (either positive, or just less negative). The less noble metal is the giver, and the more
noble metal, the taker. so the copper will eat the alloy....
 If your not in salt water the risk is less but if in one of our volcanic lakes some of that waters got salts and other chemicals in the water. A lot of the older boats with copper HXs are Fiberglass with cast iron blocks and heads. A sacrificial zinc anode like Volvo use has proven to be good. In the past Ive mentioned this issue before and some choose to ignore it. That's cool as it's not my boat. Navies around the world scrapped some of their first big alloy ships after short service life because of Galvanic,Crevice and electrolysis corrosion in their new alloy vessels. Note that these are three different types of corrosion. The results being all the same..... Here's the paper with all the info.
http://www.kastenmarine.com/_pdf/mbqCref.pdf

 I used it to fix trawlers when I used to service them. I even rag the editor Michael Kasten in the US to thank him for sorting it and removing the smoke and mirrors from the problem. He's a great bloke to talk with.
In short.... Its just electrons leaking from the alloy into the copper. Insulate the copper from the alloy hull with rubber. Paint the copper on the outside. Use a good anti corrosion coolant at the right mixture % with distilled water or rain water in the engine cooling system and you'll be in the best position to avoid the problem. "An ounce of prevention is better than a tonne of cure" Keep the bilge dry and it should be fine for years. Boats that live at a mooring in the water are way more at risk than our trailer boats.... Again you just need to be aware of it. Ignorance is bliss as they say? Wood that's been treated with a copper based anti rot treatment will eat alloy if its bolted to it too! 
Any ways back into it. The boats looking awesome and It's making me want to finish off the HJ53! Just have to get farm stuff sorted and put some time aside and get it done... Cheers all....     
Title: Re: Rapid Runner repower/refit
Post by: Kakapo76 on August 31, 2021, 14:19:07 PM
It's less of an issue in freshwater- stupidly quick in salt. I wouldn't bother with anodes and make sure everything is earthed correctly and that the HE tubes are rubber mounted.
Title: Re: Rapid Runner repower/refit
Post by: Ross Goldsack - JBNZ Immediate Past President on August 31, 2021, 15:23:06 PM
Battery will be sweet up the front  b> and easy access to the isolator is a plus  b> b>. Mr Holden put the battery in the boot in the later model Commodore
Title: Re: Rapid Runner repower/refit
Post by: tmack on September 02, 2021, 16:16:54 PM
Hay there Hondaz, I have a 4.7m alloy jetboat with an ls1, battery located in the front seat base, with around 2.5m cables to the starter and earth bolted to engine. No worries at all. Been going strong for 11 years now, with no sign of any issues.

Cheers
Terry
Title: Re: Rapid Runner repower/refit
Post by: Hondaz on September 02, 2021, 17:26:53 PM
Thanks Terry. Do you happen to know what size the main battery cables are? Been slow progress last few days - work beckons. Laying out and mounting the fuel system at the moment and fabricating the 9 litre surge tank hahahaha. Had to go for the surge tank setup due to super shallow underfloor tank and trying to get a bit more fuel into the boat.

From the main tank pickup, to a tap, to a 100u filter, to a Carter silver lift pump to inlet a couple of inches down from the top of the surge tank. Return from top of surge to main tank. All 3/8 hoses. Outlet at the bottom of the surge tank, to Bosch 044 to 10u filter, to FPR to rail. Return from FPR to top of surge. High pressure loop all done in nylon braided lines and AN fittings except surge return fitting.

All fittings on surge tank are alloy hose tails that will be TIG'd on. All good?

Running out of room to mount stuff under the transom.
Title: Re: Rapid Runner repower/refit
Post by: Hondaz on September 03, 2021, 18:40:32 PM
XX oversized surge tank built and pressure tested. 1 pinhole found at 3 x operating pressure so should be good OoOoO Slightly different to how I imagined due to physical constraints (forgot about the steering pulley back there).

Fuel system layout sorted and nearly all mounted. Just got to wait for the AN fittings to turn up.
Title: Re: Rapid Runner repower/refit
Post by: APE on September 06, 2021, 19:24:04 PM
Hi,great build looks good.just a note an 044 pump a hi flowing pump it is going to cycle your fuel alot and heat it up.have heard vapor lock can become an issue.some others on here may have more insight.
Title: Re: Rapid Runner repower/refit
Post by: Hondaz on September 07, 2021, 21:15:20 PM
Thanks APE. I did consider vapour lock and fuel heat when I was putting it all together in my head. I considered removing the Schrader valve from the end of the fuel rail and running a bypass system instead of the dead head style also but decided against that setup due to complexity.

I was hoping the oversized surge tank would also help by providing extra surface area for cooling and by cycling the warmed fuel back through the main tank. The 044 pump feed is about 500mm away from the fuel regulators inlet to the surge tank (right at the top of tank vs right at the bottom). The outlet back to the main tank is physically close to the fuel regulators inlet. The main tanks feed into the surge tank is about 100mm down from the top. Sure there will be a bit of mixing but I'm hoping hot fuel goes back to main tank and cooler fuel goes to engine. Dunno till I try it though hahaha.
Title: Re: Rapid Runner repower/refit
Post by: Hondaz on September 07, 2021, 21:27:05 PM
All fuel hosed up and ready to go.... Or at least ready to set regulator. Bilge pumps fitted.

Pretty much ready for the start on the electrical.

Just one thing I'm still undecided about - I had a fuel computer in the boat previously but can't get that to work with EFI. Has anyone done any electrickery with measuring injection timing cycles and multiplying it out at the known injector flow rates to get an accurate fuel burn/L remaining? Thinking of a system using a simple microcontroller setup and display. Only reason I ask is the underfloor tank is super shallow so getting an accurate fuel reading is going to be a bit of a guess from a floaty sender. I do have a fuel gauge in the boat (part of a multi-gauge setup) just no existing fuel sender.
Title: Re: Rapid Runner repower/refit
Post by: tmack on September 09, 2021, 10:45:22 AM
Hi Hondaz,  Sorry not sure of the battery cable size, a sparky wired it up for me. They do look reasonbly heavy cables tho. Was just reading about your fuel setup, I have 2 deep tanks in the back corners so didnt require a surge tank, but I'm running the dead head setup, and run a corvette fuel filter between the pump and the fuel rail. Has a built in fuel pressure regulater and a return fitting attached. Just returns back into the fuel tank. Found it a really simple system with no worries

Cheers
Terry
Title: Re: Rapid Runner repower/refit
Post by: Hondaz on September 09, 2021, 20:00:51 PM
Engine loom stripped of all the surplus crap. I think...

Now that I can see what's going on with it all, I believe I will mount the computer down under the header tank (hopefully no leaks - waterproof ECU?) just so I don't have to re-wire the whole lot. And if I need to take the engine out for whatever reason the ECU and loom can go with it.
Title: Re: Rapid Runner repower/refit
Post by: Hondaz on September 14, 2021, 10:07:17 AM
Found these (similar to what I was going to build but ready to plug and play).

https://www.scintex.com.au/products/engine-fuel-consumption-gauge

Anyone used one? Was thinking of just running that in 'injector' mode. Probably still more accurate (at least after a couple of calibration runs) than a floaty sender.
Title: Re: Rapid Runner repower/refit
Post by: Paul on September 14, 2021, 12:34:51 PM
Found these (similar to what I was going to build but ready to plug and play).

https://www.scintex.com.au/products/engine-fuel-consumption-gauge

Anyone used one? Was thinking of just running that in 'injector' mode. Probably still more accurate (at least after a couple of calibration runs) than a floaty sender.

Wow, a $500 display gauge with no senders...  NMEA is the nautical equivalent of CANBUS and data can be shared around the boat.  So if you have another device with fuel-flow rate/ GPS speed/ water speed/ etc it will use that as input.  Coming with no senders (and assuming the boat doesn't already have them), then that will end up being a rather pricy solution.  You can buy quite a lot of hours boating for $1000 in fuel monitoring parts....
Title: Re: Rapid Runner repower/refit
Post by: JohnR on September 14, 2021, 12:36:45 PM
Why.  If your worried about running out carry a spare 20L or 2 for the first few trips. Usualy after a while ya work out how many hrs ya get per tank. Spend the extra money saved from not buying it on fuel
Title: Re: Rapid Runner repower/refit
Post by: Hondaz on September 14, 2021, 13:13:20 PM
I don't have any sender in the boat at the moment and one to suit my existing less than 5 inch deep tank and gauge is $100 anyway by the time you add freight. Supposedly this device can also calculate consumption without senders (using injector timing pulses).

So my thinking was the $400 difference in price between a sender to get my existing gauge working and this was less than 2 tanks of gas which is about 8 hrs of conservatively driven boating.

I don't care about the NMEA stuff. Just want a semi accurate fuel gauge and that can be difficult to accomplish with a large area, shallow, under floor tank.

I've run out before in my last boat with no gauge and wasn't in a great place to have the motor stopping coming downstream into a rapid - especially with boat filled up with the wife and kids.

Title: Re: Rapid Runner repower/refit
Post by: Warwick Marflitt on September 14, 2021, 18:43:36 PM
 pop You could make use of one of these Ford fuel gauges  OoOoO maybe?  sh
Measure your tank do the math and mark the stick to match?
Tie a string on it & fasten the other end to boat! Ya don't want to litter the river now be kind boys..... cou  c0H   
Title: Re: Rapid Runner repower/refit
Post by: Hondaz on October 26, 2021, 21:11:03 PM
No updates for a while - work got in the way of the build.

Inspection hatch in floor under passenger set for HX.
Title: Re: Rapid Runner repower/refit
Post by: Hondaz on October 26, 2021, 21:13:43 PM
I have all the wiring completed to here now and just have this small pile left to connect into the plastic fuse/relay box.
Title: Re: Rapid Runner repower/refit
Post by: Hondaz on October 26, 2021, 21:17:43 PM
Pretty sure I have the tacho drive issues sorted... Needed to de-pin an unused ECU wire and load it into a different hole (not used in the Commodore) then use that to drive a pullup resistor circuit that drives the tacho in 4 cylinder mode. At least that's the theory.

Hopefully the ECU tune matches my requested setup and we should be good to go.
Title: Re: Rapid Runner repower/refit
Post by: Hondaz on November 07, 2021, 08:31:46 AM
Having a few problems with my ECU. Sent it away to someone who has a good reputation but it wouldn't start when I got it back and was throwing all sorts of codes that should have been turned off. Then I found through sheer luck and a bit of sleuthing, that the 'tuner' had posted my tune on a forum asking for help on getting it sorted! I downloaded the tune and the software to read it - confirmed my VIN number and dug into the tune finding quite a few issues. Basic things not done etc. Anyway - it's going back to the 'tuner' to get put back to factory settings so someone else can work on it.
Title: Re: Rapid Runner repower/refit
Post by: Hondaz on November 07, 2021, 08:40:30 AM
In the meantime getting on with the engine box. Think I'm just going to skin it with 7mm ply and some of that light marine carpet. Dunno? Maybe put some ventilation in the hinge up lid at the front behind the back seat. Or maybe talk to an upholstery guy so it doesn't look too DIY.
Title: Re: Rapid Runner repower/refit
Post by: Hondaz on November 15, 2021, 07:19:54 AM
Going to upholster the ply engine box in with carpet. Front seat bases now wrapped with the same carpet. Still no sign of the computer so can't run the damn thing.
Title: Re: Rapid Runner repower/refit
Post by: Hondaz on November 15, 2021, 07:21:08 AM
Oops double picture post above sorry. Meant to be this one
Title: Re: Rapid Runner repower/refit
Post by: Jimmy Jet on November 15, 2021, 09:06:25 AM
Coming together. Looking good!
Title: Re: Rapid Runner repower/refit
Post by: Warwick Marflitt on November 16, 2021, 09:30:22 AM
Fantastic build. I'm Green with ENVY, 1 Question though. Is the engine cover frame rubbing against the Fuel pump? With the Vibration and Bumping environment of Jet boating. You might be wise to give it some wriggle room.....Keep at it and its bum will be wet before Christmas...
Title: Re: Rapid Runner repower/refit
Post by: Hondaz on November 16, 2021, 20:58:37 PM
It's got a scallop in the alloy now just to give it some racing slop. The goal is to have it done before mid December but that all depends now on the guy who was supposed to be doing my computer, putting it back to factory settings, so I can take it to someone else who actually knows what they are doing to sort it.
Title: Re: Rapid Runner repower/refit
Post by: Jocsax on November 20, 2021, 20:49:50 PM
Who was the guy doing the ecu?
Title: Re: Rapid Runner repower/refit
Post by: Hondaz on November 21, 2021, 15:13:03 PM
Hmmm... Not sure if I should say. He has a good reputation in the jetboating fraternity which is one of the reasons I used him.

Definitely disappointed with him but monies have been refunded and as long as the ECU is not toast then I think I'll leave it at that.

It's booked in somewhere else next week (if it turns back up) so will know more then.
Title: Re: Rapid Runner repower/refit
Post by: Gunnadoo on November 21, 2021, 16:50:31 PM
This is know help but..Good on ya. I?m far from a motor/ecu expert but am an experienced tradie that still gets caught out sometimes.  By the sounds of it it thee tuner is standup ie refund and prolly more annoyed than most in not being able to deliver.
Title: Re: Rapid Runner repower/refit
Post by: Hondaz on November 26, 2021, 17:34:13 PM
Engine box all finished. ECU has been reprogrammed by an actual expert hopefully.

Away at a wedding all weekend so can't try it out! >>@
Title: Re: Rapid Runner repower/refit
Post by: Hondaz on November 28, 2021, 21:11:00 PM
It's ALIVE!  OoOoO B))T

A couple of minor issues but super happy with the performance. Totally transformed the boat.

New road cover booked in for tomorrow. Then a propper shakedown run.
Title: Re: Rapid Runner repower/refit
Post by: Ross Goldsack - JBNZ Immediate Past President on November 29, 2021, 22:59:47 PM
Well done 👏. Nice work
Title: Re: Rapid Runner repower/refit
Post by: Hondaz on December 07, 2021, 10:20:22 AM
All done now. If you see it on the water somewhere - stop in and say hi.

PS... Put sealant on your LS flywheel bolts and especially into any empty holes into the crank flange if your only using 4 of the 6 bolts for your drive block.
Title: Re: Rapid Runner repower/refit
Post by: orac12 on December 08, 2021, 20:33:02 PM
Looks nice. Is that alternator belt on the correct side of the tensioner ?

 B))T
Title: Re: Rapid Runner repower/refit
Post by: JohnR on December 08, 2021, 23:01:28 PM
Looks nice. Is that alternator belt on the correct side of the tensioner ?

 B))T

Yup.  Thats a grooved pulley
Title: Re: Rapid Runner repower/refit
Post by: orac12 on December 09, 2021, 08:19:32 AM
Yep can see it clearly now. Too much icecream in my milkshake last night.