Dash mounted reverse lever

[iceman]

Ive tried searching but im unable to find any photos or diagrams showing the setup for a dash mounted reverse handle.

I know it drops down thru the dash , but I didnt take note of how the fulcrum type lever system should look at its  base and its connection upto the rod that runs down the bilge connecting to the reverse lever on the jet unit.
Any advice  most welcome.

[iceman]

All Good, found out its a fairly simple Bell-crank type system, looks a very simple, reliable type of reverse system having the handle well out of the way and easy to operate.

[Paul]

Moving the lever left-to-right and vice versa, at arms length, with the reverse bucket/mechanism under load, is not easy.

Mike ("mandk") has a great setup like a 'hand brake' lever, that connects onto the mechanism on the unit using solid bars.  You have a lot more power lifting a 'hand brake' type lever, than sweeping horizontally, at arms reach.

Another option is converting to Morse push/pull cable system (which is what I did).

Getting rid of the original vertical bar, also means you no longer keep hitting your legs when getting in/out from under the dash.

[jetdesign]

My reverse uses the standard morse reverse lever and cable mounted directly behind the steering wheel in the horizontal position
I will get some pics
I found that the spring position is the critical part of the system
the spring should help the bucket down and up
if you position the spring correctly then operation of the lever is relatively easy

[johnmead]

I have a lever to the left side of my driver seat, with a shaft under the seat and a crank through the floor connected to the rod as used with the dash mounted lever. Works fine  Been there since 1983 

[iceman]

Hi Paul, Does the drag cause this? the lever operation seems fine on dry land.

I have never owned or driven a jet boat before so im flying by the seat of my pants.

we have just made copies of all the rusted/bent/seized bits and are trying to re attach them some where close to where hopefully the original hull was. 

[Paul]

Hi Paul, Does the drag cause this? the lever operation seems fine on dry land.

I have never owned or driven a jet boat before so im flying by the seat of my pants.

we have just made copies of all the rusted/bent/seized bits and are trying to re attach them some where close to where hopefully the original hull was. 

That original bell-crank mechanism has been in use like that for over 40 years, but it's not really the best option out there now.

The reverse mechanism on the unit tends to bind up, if your trying to operate it with some RPM on (e.g. engaging reverse quickly to slow the boat to avoid something in the water).  With the unit running in the water, then moving the mechanism on the unit, is a lot more difficult at 3000rpm, than at tickover.  So if you ever think you may want to engage reverse quickly and forcefully, then I'd look at other options than the original handle.

If you're just using reverse to get off the trailer/beach (i.e. tickover RPM), then it doesn't really matter how long it takes your hand to 'find the lever' or how strong you can be pulling it.  But if you're in narrow confines on a river, your hand needs to be able to grab the handle very quickly (without looking), and you want to be able to engage it quickly/forcefully.


My point re left/right vs hand-brake style, is that you can generate a lot more force pulling _towards_ your shoulder, than swinging your arm left/right.  You are often still pulling towards your shoulder with the Morse type controller, so you get the power advantage with that type too.

[mohawk]

The original Hamilton set up is mint, and strong and simple.  You pull back towards you to get nuteral  ( not left -right ) and around too the left abit for reverse.
It always felt alot more natural too me than pretty little levers all over the place 
Nuteral is more than enough to stop any boat and jambing it in reverse something you shpould do when looking backwards  .
The main thing too watch for Ice is that the bucket is nice and high when going forward or youll find your boat putting the brakes on all by itself when you least expect it  .......

[Paul]

The original Hamilton set up is mint, and strong and simple.  You pull back towards you to get nuteral  ( not left -right ) and around too the left abit for reverse.

Maybe that's it then. You need to make sure the lever is further to the right for forwards, so moving it to neutral is more like pulling towards you.  It could be bell-crank on mine was just installed badly before I got it.

Nuteral is more than enough to stop any boat

Yes, eventually.

Maybe if you've got 20+ years on jet boats like you, the driving skills are a bit more instinctive, but for guys (like me) with far fewer river hours, I'll take any advantage I can get to avoid hitting stuff (- fast reverse included)!!

[mohawk]

I think in alot of cases the term " throw it in reverse too stop "  is just a figure of speech.

[johnmead]

I think in alot of cases the term " throw it in reverse too stop "  is just a figure of speech.

Agree  You actually have to remove your foot from the throttle briefly, then engage reverse, then give it some revs!! It's not an instinctive action  and takes a wee bit of practice  but can be very effective in an emergency stop. Specially if it's pretty shallow 

[mohawk]

Can get pretty wet too 

[johnmead]

Need a good unit cover

[zymes]

Hey Iceman,
There are many types of of reverse mechanisms depending on boats age. Old boats probably twist vertical shaft (sounds like yours) or up down connected to rod system OR Morse cable backwards and forwards. Newer boats could be electric or hydraulic. All boats  behave differently depending length, weight, hull shape and engine power. Paul is right about driving a jet needs to be instinctive. When reversing turn the wheel opposite direction to the way you would to reverse a car or prop boat (important if you are in close proximity to a jetty or other boats). If I ever drive a prop boat I seem to reverse the wrong direction unless I keep saying to myself "It's a prop boat".
If you are new to jets, join your local Jet Boat Club. There will be heaps of guys willing to go out with you and help you to handle your boat and show you all the safety stuff so you don't destroy yourself or your boat.
My twist reverse is opposite to Mohawks, 9 o'clock is forward, twist anticlockwise to 6 o'clock for neutral and 3 o'clock is reverse. No way can I get the reverse bucket down with the foot on the throttle (2000rpm+), but at any speed you can make an emergency stop. Foot off the throttle, jam it into reverse, foot on the throttle. Stops damn quick. Essential if you don't want to hit something. Suggest you go out on a lake, throw in a buoy, try driving at it and doing a reverse stop at various speeds and see how much throttle it takes to stop and the amount of water that comes over the back at various speeds. Get to the stage where you can do a stop at full speed. You may need it if you have no way to steer out of it.
Same deal with steering. Try various combinations of foot off throttle, turn  wheel, foot on throttle at the buoy. These basic operations will become instinctive after a while (how long to learn to ride a motorbike?) and are very necessary on a river as you don't have too much time to consider your options.
Cheers

[mohawk]

We would cut,weld or re drill the pin in the vertical shaft so forward was up close too the screen and reverce was almost strait back at 6 oclock .
you get used too most things over time .
Zymes...
Try your steering in reverse theory with a coggan or turbine reverse bucket and see how you get on ... I got sick of crashing into stuff and choped the bucket off my coggan pump