Impellor removal

[Paul]

So earlier I was removing the impellors.  I followed a bit of Mohawk's advice re removing stuck\tight impellors and thought I'd take a picture and share too.

To do it, you just make a loop around each blade with the rope, then tie the ends (- reef-knot maybe); slot the jack in between the end of the shaft and the loops; and wind it off.  Due to jacking against the end of the shaft, you may not be able to jack it far (- unless you make up a sleeve to fit against the shoulder), however you may well find that as soon as it starts moving you can pull it off the rest of the way manually.

In the past I've had issues with some hydraulic jacks only working when standing vertical (- the pump can loose it's prime), however I've been told that you can use a hydraulic one horizontal if you really top-off the oil reservoir.

It's been about 8-9 years since the unit was last torn down and this worked really well even after all this time.

[Jeff B]

Paul, hydraulic jacks work fine on their side as long as the pump part is at the bottom .
It's a good idea to drill and tap the back of the impeller to take a couple of M8 bolts, that way a decent steel puller can be used if the impeller is really stuck. Some aftermarket impellers have these done already.
Doesn't look like it's seen many rocks?

[Paul]

Paul, hydraulic jacks work fine on their side as long as the pump part is at the bottom .

Ahh, makes sense - didn't investigate any further when it stopped.

It's a good idea to drill and tap the back of the impeller to take a couple of M8 bolts, that way a decent steel puller can be used if the impeller is really stuck. Some aftermarket impellers have these done already.

Good idea - I'll have a think about it.  Drilling\tapping stainless can be pretty difficult. 

Doesn't look like it's seen many rocks?

I've got a friend with a concrete-pump for the rock pumping! 

[Waughloch]

Is that "MOHAWK AGGREGATES " ?     OR  "SHINGLE SHIFTERS  "?

[swifty]

Great pictures there of jacking off Paul 

[Paul]

Great pictures there of jacking off Paul 

 
Before posting, I re-wrote my original words due to that phrase coming up...

[Matthewf/Norbert/TuiDog]

oh dear








nice idea paul

[johnmead]

If you put them back on with the right anti-seize on the shaft they come off eazy next time  Can't remember the name of the stuff I've got, but it definitely works 

[will.t]

I use crc copper antiseize. Slides off everytime

[mohawk]

Yup , makes jacking off heaps easyer      (see how long this post lasts  )

[Hacky]

I use " Silver Grade " all purpose anti-seize. High temp 1600c, for assembling anything which will need to be pulled apart. It's meant to be better with dissimilar metals for electrolysis.

[Jeff B]

I also heard somewhere that the silver grade anti-seize was better than the copper stuff?
We use the silver stuff at work on anything stainless steel.

[Waughloch]

The only thing to use below the water line that doesn't have powdered metals in it is RES-Q-STEEL it's the Ducks Nuts. Lasts for years. Copper coats for exhaust and turbo nuts and bolts and anything that gets hot. The old ford Cortina conical seat spark plugs would seize in the heads  if you didn't copper coat them. The  silver stuff usually has Nickel in it. Aluminum  and other metals don't like playing in the sand pit together.  A bit like the Gaza Strip Jewish Palistine relationship. Honestly you won't get a better impeller anti seize than this.

NO JACKING REQUIRED

[eztyger]

thanks for this info, I am trying to remove my impellers and didn't know how much pressure to use, seems simple enough now. But keen for any video or advice on how to pull the thing apart. Cheers

[Paul]

I am trying to remove my impellers and didn't know how much pressure to use, seems simple enough now. But keen for any video or advice on how to pull the thing apart.

Which bits/bolts have you managed to remove so far?
Re the impellors and jack, you just keep increasing the tension until the blade releases - there isn't really anything to damage/break (apart from the rope).